Post by Charlotte Marcello on Jun 7, 2017 21:03:31 GMT -6
Ok none of this is my own work except for compiling it all together. Before all the excerpts is the link to the page they are from if you want to read more. I've only put in what I found most interesting or important.
This is not required reading it's just for your information if you want it!!
Woman’s fashion of the 1920’s
glamourdaze.com/history-of-womens-fashion/1920-to-1929
There was far more to women’s fashion in the 1920’s than the iconic Flapper look of bobbed hair, long necklaces, cloche hats, flapper slang and dancing to the ‘Charleston’ !
The explosion of creativity in stunning innovative styles in dress, hair, swimwear, shoes – the list goes on, all raised the bar to a height that hasn’t been matched since. All subsequent eras would seek to emulate, re-create, or re-imagine the clothing styles pioneered by the 1920’s designers and the adventurous women who wore them!
Not only did the waist drop – but most significantly, the hemlines rose – dangerously! This sudden exposure of women’s legs in the 1920s, brought about a huge interest in women’s hosiery, and stocking sales went through the roof. Silk was still the main sought after fabric, and the common colours were beige and grey and white being the most favoured.
For day wear – during the colder months a girl would wear a wrap-over coat or jacket/cardigan – worn with blouse and a pleated skirt – not forgetting the obligatory cloche hat of course. On summer afternoons the common choice was a basic shift dress – now often sleeveless, with a decolletage often as low as an evening dress. In evening gowns, the hem rose and fell as the decade waxed and waned, but it was all about revealing shoulders and backs!
Over these bare arms – in daytime – a wrap coat, worn with scarves and if she could afford it – fur accessories. Shoulders of coats were cut broad with voluminous armholes, which intensified the look of ‘shapelessness’. To compliment the newer slimmer silhouettes in evening gowns, capes appeared by the beginning of the 1920’s with gabardine being a favorite fabric.
The fringy mini-dress- so often seen as the typical evening gown from the 1920s, is a popular misconception brought about by the 1960s revival of certain 1920s fads.
In fact the normal hemline rose to just below the knee. This hem height was particularly favoured by women as they enjoyed the freedom and swishing feeling against their legs – of the new softer and more feminine fabrics weighed down with elegant bead-work – a particular feature in a 1920s evening dress. Many gowns were designed with the new dances in mind so freedom of movement was always important to a party going girl.
www.1920-30.com/fashion/
1920's Dresses were lighter (due to less material and new synthetic fabrics) and brighter and shorter than ever before. Fashion designers played with fabric colors, textures and patterns to create totally new styles of dress. Evening dresses, coats and jackets were often trimmed with fur. Fur coats dropped in popularity while fur trimmed coats, especially for women, followed an upward trend. Hemlines rose for most of the decade but dropped slightly toward the end.
Shoes and stockings assumed a greater prominence now that they were more visible. Silk stockings in all the colors of the rainbow, often with patterns, were designed to match the coordinated outfits of stylish women.
Women's underwear changed as a result of this move towards practical clothing, with corsets becoming smaller and more flexible, and modern style bras being introduced. The new bras provided shape and support whereas the older style tended to flatten breasts and constrict the chest.
Flappers, as the trendy young women were called in the U.S., wore short dresses with a straight loose silhouette. By 1927 seams had risen to just below the knee, so that part of the knee could be seen when dancing the Charleston.
www.american-historama.org/1913-1928-ww1-prohibition-era/1920s-fashion.htm
1920's Fashion History Fact 5: Rolled stockings: Flappers rolled stockings below the knee, and used garters to keep them up.
1920's Fashion History Fact 6: Cloche Hat: The bell-shaped cloche hat was a defining fashion statement in the 1920's. The name is derived from cloche, the French word for "bell". Cloche hats were typically made of felt and were designed to be worn low on the forehead. For evening wear, Cloche hats were made from beads or lace. By the end of the 1920s, it became fashionable to turn the brims on cloche hats upwards.
1920's Fashion History Fact 7: Chemise / Camisole: The chemise was a loose-fitting undergarment, that came to be known as a camisole, which replaced the tight fitting, constrictive corsets of the Victorian era.
1920's Fashion History Fact 8: Scarves: Scarves were another 'must have' fashion accessory in bold, striking Art Deco designs. The scarf was rolled and tied around the head just above the browline and knotted at the side or the back of the head.
www.1920s-fashion-and-music.com/1920s-fashion.html
Daytime dresses of the 1920s were shapeless affairs, they didn't hug a woman's curves, instead they hung loosely, often even the sleeves were worn loose as well.
From there the cloche hat spread like wildfire.
Made of velvet, satin, horsehair, straw or felt, the cloche (means "bell" in French) hid a woman hair and allowed her to tuck it up into the hat.
Some variations of the standard cloche were the gigolo hat with it's wider brim and crease at the top. One side dipped lower than the other, giving women a "devil may care" nonchalance.
Coats were usually made of somewhat subdued colors, browns and dark blues, and were often covered with large buttons. Furs and fur trimming was wildly popular. Just about any animal imaginable was available to line the inside of a coat or to serve as a warm collar.
In the early 1920s, bows weren’t necessary prominent features on women’s coats, but by the mid twenties, Paris had cabled the world to let them know: bows are in. Depending on the budget, a woman would generally choose between wool velour and fur. A particularly nice coat might be made of all-wool Venise Bolivia, with a Paris bow and buckle that fastened in front of the left hip.
While many coats were long, stretching below the knee, a shorter coat was also in fashion. Short sport jacquettes were quite popular for their convenience and functionality. Coney fur in a natural tan shade, or dyed in silverine shade (silver/gray blended with dark markings) was a popular choice for this coat. Another popular shade was called Muskratine, which was dyed in a tan shade with brown markings to closely resemble the natural muskrat.
macaulay.cuny.edu/eportfolios/messenger/2013/05/05/the-influence-of-1920s-fashion/
1. Cloche Hat
Many flappers showed off their short hair by wearing cloche hats. Cloche is the French word for “bell.” These fitted hats were decorated with different kinds of appliques, feathers, and brooches. Cloche hats are still made by many designers and are a great winter accessory. They appear in a variety of fabrics and have a variety of accents. There is something really feminine about them, and they look great with a classic winter wool coat.
2. Decorative Headbands
When not wearing cloche hats, young women loved to wear all kinds of beautiful headbands and other hair accessories to show off their bobbed hair. These headbands were a beautiful way to complement an elegant evening dress. Like cloche hats, headbands came in a variety of designs. Because of the general feeling of luxury of the era, these accessories had gold accents and were covered in all sorts of gems and feathers. These headbands are still found adorning the heads of many fashionistas and are a great way to show off a hairstyle.
3. Drop-Waist Dress
In the 1920s, after centuries of wearing constricting corsets to achieve an hourglass figure, women started to wear clothes that produced a boyish silhouette. Many women wanted to go out to clubs and dance the Charleston as well. The drop-waist dress was the perfect garment to wear because it did not require a corset; it was loose, and therefore allowed women to move about and dance freely. The flappers who wore these dresses were telling the world that they were sick of wearing constricting clothing, and they wanted to be free. Although not the symbol of rebellion that they once were, drop-waist dresses still provide a unique way to rock a dress. In a light fabric, they’re perfect to wear on a beautiful spring day. Drop-waist dresses accented with fringe or sequins are also great to wear for a night out.
4. Statement Jewelry
Two things came together in the 1920s to define the jewelry of the period: Art Deco and the discovery of King Tut’s tomb. Art Deco is a design style that emphasizes geometric shapes, bold colors, and luxurious decoration. The Chrysler building in New York City is a perfect example of Art Deco architecture. The boldness of this design style is the perfect complement to the excess and luxury of the 1920’s. The discovery of King Tut’s tomb in 1922 also heavily influenced the jewelry. Designers were inspired by the boy king’s elaborate tomb, and as a result, incorporated gold and large gems into their pieces. The women’s jewelry of previous periods is feminine and dainty. The jewelry of the 1920’s is still feminine, but it is bold. The earrings are long, dangly, and have interesting shapes. The necklaces are also long, and have pendants that are chunky and appear in a variety of colors. The brooches are covered in gems and sparkle on the wearer’s chest. Today, we live in a world where women can pile on necklaces of all shapes and sizes and wear five bracelets on each wrist if they wanted to. The women of this period are the ones who made that possible. An outfit is nothing without accessories, and one statement piece can make a simple outfit into something amazing.
5. T-strap Shoes
For the first time, as hemlines rose, women had the opportunity to show off their shoes and feet. T-strap shoes became popular during this period because they were relatively comfortable to dance in, were unique, and allowed women to reveal a bit of skin. These shoes still appear in designers’ collections year after year because there’s something timeless about them. Their interesting design showcases a woman’s feet, and they’re a great alternative to regular pumps.
Woman’s underwear
www.victoriana.com/Fashion/1920s/lingerie.htm
The 1920s women’s fashions exhibited an unprecedented transformation from the heavily corseted figure of the Victorian era into an almost boyish silhouette. Dresses were shapeless and loose-fitting, with skirt lengths rotating from ankle length to knee length and back again. Shapely curves were concealed with undefined box-shape fashions; and flat-chested was in!
Young women took to bandaging their breasts flat to achieve the desired manly outline or wore undergarments just as the Symington Side Lacer that flattened the bust when tightened. 1920s lingerie and 1920s underwear reflected the absence of a silhouette the same as dress fashions by mimicking the box shape in slips, chemises and negligees.
vintagedancer.com/1920s/lingerie-history/
The slim silhouette and lighter style of dresses in the twenties also had a dramatic effect on women’s 1920s lingerie. In the 1900s a woman would wear drawers/bloomers, chemise, corset, corset cover, and several petticoats underneath her dress. Up 11 layers of lingerie was put on a well to do lady. By the end of the 1920s, a thin woman could only wear a brassier with a teddy and be sufficiently dressed in lingerie.
Lingerie fabric choices included cottons and silks in the form of satin, pongee, shantung, crepe de chine and silk glove. Artificial silk, called Rayon, was a good middle class choice of fabric. Rayon is easy to dye so new colors of peach, pink, pastel green, and flesh were available instead of just white. Rayon breathed well and was considered very sanitary (a new concern for all in the twenties.) In the second half of the decade printed fabrics were becoming trendy. Dainty decorations like lace, applique, embroidery and ribbon flowers were added to lingerie. The underwear had to be as pretty as the outerwear.
Between 1920 and 1928, corset sales declined by two thirds, but corsets makers adapted to changing needs. Long corsets produced the boyish figure, but instead of thick boned corsets many women preferred thin elastic “Lastix” girdles that flattened the abdomen. They squished flesh into a tubular shape, all the way from under the bust down over the hip. A heavy duty corset had a girdle on the inside and a longer corset on the outside. Long corsets made walking a slow stiff gliding motion.
Fast flappers refused to wear corsets. “The men won’t dance with you if you wear a corset” cried the young flappers. Many dance establishments included “corset check rooms,” where girls who had to leave home wearing a corset could remove it during the dance. Only unconfined flappers could run, dance, and drive cars in comfort.
The function of the brassiere throughout most of the decade was to flatten, not enhance, the breasts. Bust flattening garments were usually made from cotton, did not have cups, and were worn tight against the body. A linen or silk bandeau/bust bodice/bust confiner that had elastic in the back and fastened on the sides could also function as a 1920s brassiere. A buxom woman’s bandeau was made of heavier twill cotton or brocade and had longer lengths. Many adopted the Symington Side Lacer, a bra that could be laced at both sides and pulled in to flatten the chest. Strapping the “girls” down had negative effects on them. Many women into the thirties and beyond said their breasts never came back to their previous perky life. As the decade came to an end, more women began to wear bras with cups that were designed to life and separate, courtesy of the Maiden Form Brassiere Company.
Woven cotton or silk bloomers, drawers, and french panties were baggier and longer than knickers, falling to the knee or perhaps just above. Drawers and bloomers are basically the same with the primary difference being that drawers have a wide leg opening and bloomers have an elastic leg opening. Of course, neither of these options were good for the iconic 20s beaded dress so in that case, a silk step-in chemise was the best option. Step-ins had pointed waist yokes that were cut on the straight of fabric while the side pieces were cut on the bias allowing fabric to fall in graceful fluted folds. They were about as far away from a corset as you can get complete with a button or snap crotch and were intended to be worn next to the skin.
For winter these light chemise or step-ins were too light. Cotton or wool union suits (long johns) were still worn, however, the legs and arms were cut shorter to accommodate shorter hem and sleeve lengths. They still had back flaps buttoned or snapped into place.
Nightgowns were long ankle length pull over gowns with pretty embroidery and square lace necklines. Winter versions could be made of flannel in a multitude of colorful plaids and patterns.
Pajamas Suits were a favorite in summer with a sleeveless V neck tunic over wide leg loose pants. Silk, rayon, cotton fabric in pastels colors were common. Red and black were an Asian inspired trend. They had lots of embroidery with floral butterflies and dragon patterns.
Nightgowns were long ankle length pull over gowns with pretty embroidery and square lace necklines. Winter versions could be made of flannel in a multitude of colorful plaids and patterns.
Pajamas Suits were a favorite in summer with a sleeveless V neck tunic over wide leg loose pants. Silk, rayon, cotton fabric in pastels colors were common. Red and black were an Asian inspired trend. They had lots of embroidery with floral butterflies and dragon patterns.
Also called hostess coats they were long silk robes in pink, powder blue or peach trimmed with fluffy ruffles, ruching, silk fringe, lace, fur, ostrich feathers, and ribbon flowers. They were very popular items for movie stars to wear on and off set.
Make up
hair-and-makeup-artist.com/womens-1920s-makeup/
Face and Complexion
The complexion was considered the most important aspect of beauty, as it had been in previous decades, and cold cream was a best seller throughout the decade.
A variety of skin care products were on the market (for example, to vanish wrinkles, build tissue, vanquish blemishes and freckles), and their use widely discussed in magazine articles. Just like today.
After cold cream, face powder was probably the most important makeup item for many women. It came in limited colours, the most common being white, cream, pink (often called ‘Flesh’ or ‘Natural’) and sandy tones (often called ‘Brunette’, whatever the brand). There was even a green-tinted face powder, used more in the early 1920s.
Face powder was applied with a powder puff and used liberally. Powders were sometimes mixed to personalise colour more, and some women used different colours on different parts of the face – a sort of contouring attempt.
Rouge was applied to the apples, where cheek colour naturally occurs. Application could often give women a soft, flushed look to the face. Lipstick and rouge colour would often be matched.
Rouge came predominantly in shades of pink, from pale pink to dark rose.
Rouge with an orange tint was considered good for women with a golden skin tone or, later on, a tan.
Rouge was often classed simply as ‘Light’, ‘Medium’ or ‘Dark’. A darker pink was sometimes called ‘Brunette’, as it was considered the right shade for dark hair.
Rouge formulations include dry powder, liquid and paste, and came in little pots, tins, jars and compacts.
Rouge was applied to the apples, where cheek colour naturally occurs. Application could often give women a soft, flushed look to the face.
Classic 1920s eye shadow is dark, soft and smoky. Colour was applied to the eyelids and crease, and also underneath the eyes. Magazine articles from 1926 on mention purple and blue pencils used as eye shadow. There was also brown eye shadow. For those less brave, or for a more subtle daytime look, a trace of darker face powder was used on the eyelids.
Pencil liners were used to draw a line on the upper eyelids or round the whole eye. A dot was used in the outer corner to give the tilted-up look.
Mascara was still a relatively new invention and used to primarily darken the lashes. It was known as ‘eyelash beautifier’ or ‘eyelash darkener’.
Formulations include liquid, paste and a solid cake block, with a little flat brush for applying the product to the lashes. It could also be used on eye brows.
Maybelline was the leader in eyelash products and the company spent a lot on advertising.
In 1923, a new device was invented – the eyelash curler. Made by Kurlash, it was a big success, despite being expensive at the time. It looked similar to the clamp curlers we use today.
Eyebrows
Long and thin eyebrows were the ‘film star fashionable’ look for the ’20s. There were two ways to get the look: pluck them thin and pencil in, or pluck/shave the brows off and draw on the brows in pencil, creating whatever shape or look one required.
Clara Bow‘s penciled brows were sometimes drawn on lower than her natural brow. Being wide set and sloping down, these brows created the mournful ‘doe eyed’ look.
Natural brows would be shaped in a thin arch and coloured using paste or cake mascara, or a brow pencil. It was fashionable to draw the ends of the brows beyond the natural brow, and slopping down.
Everyday women may not have plucked their brows as thinly as seen on some movie stars or in adverts. In portrait photographs, ordinary ladies have brows that tend to be a bit thicker.
Lip pomade came in pots or in a palette as part of a compact. The new thing in lipstick was the push-up tube (made from metal or Bakelite), invented by Maurice Levy in 1915.
Lip colours came in shades of red, pink and orange – colour descriptions used in adverts and on products include poppy, rose, scarlet, cerise, raspberry and carmine. The early ’20s lip colours were darker, like claret. Towards the end of the ’20s, lip colours got a bit lighter, like raspberry.
Tangee made one lipstick – an orange that turned a coral pink on the lips. Indelible lipsticks (long-lasting) were also available.
The lip shape most associated with 1920s makeup is the cupid’s bow. The upper lip was heart-shaped, and lipstick on the lower lip was applied short of its outer edge, creating a smaller-looking and rounded mouth.
The cinema showed women from all walks of life, from socialites to secretaries, with immaculate nails. Manicured nails were no longer just for rich folks whose hands never saw manual labour. Everyone could have nice nails.
Nails had been coloured for thousands of years using pastes, liquids and waxes made from all sorts of ingredients, largely unchanged for centuries. The 20th century saw the start of modern nail varnish, where a coat of liquid is painted on and left to dry/harden.
Liquid nail varnish with more in common to the products used today started in 1917, when Cutex introduced varnish made from coloured resins.
After World War I, there was a surplus of nitrocellulose. Experimentation showed that boiling nitrocellulose made it soluble in organic solvents, which, once evaporated and dried, left a hard, glossy lacquer. The car industry loved it and, with a few minor tweaks, it became nail lacquer.
Early nail varnishes didn’t adhere well and soon wore off, but it was the start of the nail varnish industry. The first products were made in translucent soft pinks, creating a natural-looking colour reminiscent of the nail waxes used at the time.
For a white nail tip, products like Cutex Nail White was used under the tip.
Nails were filed to an oval tip, some even had quite a sharp point. One style of manicure seen in the 1920s was the half moon manicure: where the round moon and tips of the nails were left bare.
This is not required reading it's just for your information if you want it!!
Woman’s fashion of the 1920’s
glamourdaze.com/history-of-womens-fashion/1920-to-1929
There was far more to women’s fashion in the 1920’s than the iconic Flapper look of bobbed hair, long necklaces, cloche hats, flapper slang and dancing to the ‘Charleston’ !
The explosion of creativity in stunning innovative styles in dress, hair, swimwear, shoes – the list goes on, all raised the bar to a height that hasn’t been matched since. All subsequent eras would seek to emulate, re-create, or re-imagine the clothing styles pioneered by the 1920’s designers and the adventurous women who wore them!
Not only did the waist drop – but most significantly, the hemlines rose – dangerously! This sudden exposure of women’s legs in the 1920s, brought about a huge interest in women’s hosiery, and stocking sales went through the roof. Silk was still the main sought after fabric, and the common colours were beige and grey and white being the most favoured.
For day wear – during the colder months a girl would wear a wrap-over coat or jacket/cardigan – worn with blouse and a pleated skirt – not forgetting the obligatory cloche hat of course. On summer afternoons the common choice was a basic shift dress – now often sleeveless, with a decolletage often as low as an evening dress. In evening gowns, the hem rose and fell as the decade waxed and waned, but it was all about revealing shoulders and backs!
Over these bare arms – in daytime – a wrap coat, worn with scarves and if she could afford it – fur accessories. Shoulders of coats were cut broad with voluminous armholes, which intensified the look of ‘shapelessness’. To compliment the newer slimmer silhouettes in evening gowns, capes appeared by the beginning of the 1920’s with gabardine being a favorite fabric.
The fringy mini-dress- so often seen as the typical evening gown from the 1920s, is a popular misconception brought about by the 1960s revival of certain 1920s fads.
In fact the normal hemline rose to just below the knee. This hem height was particularly favoured by women as they enjoyed the freedom and swishing feeling against their legs – of the new softer and more feminine fabrics weighed down with elegant bead-work – a particular feature in a 1920s evening dress. Many gowns were designed with the new dances in mind so freedom of movement was always important to a party going girl.
www.1920-30.com/fashion/
1920's Dresses were lighter (due to less material and new synthetic fabrics) and brighter and shorter than ever before. Fashion designers played with fabric colors, textures and patterns to create totally new styles of dress. Evening dresses, coats and jackets were often trimmed with fur. Fur coats dropped in popularity while fur trimmed coats, especially for women, followed an upward trend. Hemlines rose for most of the decade but dropped slightly toward the end.
Shoes and stockings assumed a greater prominence now that they were more visible. Silk stockings in all the colors of the rainbow, often with patterns, were designed to match the coordinated outfits of stylish women.
Women's underwear changed as a result of this move towards practical clothing, with corsets becoming smaller and more flexible, and modern style bras being introduced. The new bras provided shape and support whereas the older style tended to flatten breasts and constrict the chest.
Flappers, as the trendy young women were called in the U.S., wore short dresses with a straight loose silhouette. By 1927 seams had risen to just below the knee, so that part of the knee could be seen when dancing the Charleston.
www.american-historama.org/1913-1928-ww1-prohibition-era/1920s-fashion.htm
1920's Fashion History Fact 5: Rolled stockings: Flappers rolled stockings below the knee, and used garters to keep them up.
1920's Fashion History Fact 6: Cloche Hat: The bell-shaped cloche hat was a defining fashion statement in the 1920's. The name is derived from cloche, the French word for "bell". Cloche hats were typically made of felt and were designed to be worn low on the forehead. For evening wear, Cloche hats were made from beads or lace. By the end of the 1920s, it became fashionable to turn the brims on cloche hats upwards.
1920's Fashion History Fact 7: Chemise / Camisole: The chemise was a loose-fitting undergarment, that came to be known as a camisole, which replaced the tight fitting, constrictive corsets of the Victorian era.
1920's Fashion History Fact 8: Scarves: Scarves were another 'must have' fashion accessory in bold, striking Art Deco designs. The scarf was rolled and tied around the head just above the browline and knotted at the side or the back of the head.
www.1920s-fashion-and-music.com/1920s-fashion.html
Daytime dresses of the 1920s were shapeless affairs, they didn't hug a woman's curves, instead they hung loosely, often even the sleeves were worn loose as well.
From there the cloche hat spread like wildfire.
Made of velvet, satin, horsehair, straw or felt, the cloche (means "bell" in French) hid a woman hair and allowed her to tuck it up into the hat.
Some variations of the standard cloche were the gigolo hat with it's wider brim and crease at the top. One side dipped lower than the other, giving women a "devil may care" nonchalance.
Coats were usually made of somewhat subdued colors, browns and dark blues, and were often covered with large buttons. Furs and fur trimming was wildly popular. Just about any animal imaginable was available to line the inside of a coat or to serve as a warm collar.
In the early 1920s, bows weren’t necessary prominent features on women’s coats, but by the mid twenties, Paris had cabled the world to let them know: bows are in. Depending on the budget, a woman would generally choose between wool velour and fur. A particularly nice coat might be made of all-wool Venise Bolivia, with a Paris bow and buckle that fastened in front of the left hip.
While many coats were long, stretching below the knee, a shorter coat was also in fashion. Short sport jacquettes were quite popular for their convenience and functionality. Coney fur in a natural tan shade, or dyed in silverine shade (silver/gray blended with dark markings) was a popular choice for this coat. Another popular shade was called Muskratine, which was dyed in a tan shade with brown markings to closely resemble the natural muskrat.
macaulay.cuny.edu/eportfolios/messenger/2013/05/05/the-influence-of-1920s-fashion/
1. Cloche Hat
Many flappers showed off their short hair by wearing cloche hats. Cloche is the French word for “bell.” These fitted hats were decorated with different kinds of appliques, feathers, and brooches. Cloche hats are still made by many designers and are a great winter accessory. They appear in a variety of fabrics and have a variety of accents. There is something really feminine about them, and they look great with a classic winter wool coat.
2. Decorative Headbands
When not wearing cloche hats, young women loved to wear all kinds of beautiful headbands and other hair accessories to show off their bobbed hair. These headbands were a beautiful way to complement an elegant evening dress. Like cloche hats, headbands came in a variety of designs. Because of the general feeling of luxury of the era, these accessories had gold accents and were covered in all sorts of gems and feathers. These headbands are still found adorning the heads of many fashionistas and are a great way to show off a hairstyle.
3. Drop-Waist Dress
In the 1920s, after centuries of wearing constricting corsets to achieve an hourglass figure, women started to wear clothes that produced a boyish silhouette. Many women wanted to go out to clubs and dance the Charleston as well. The drop-waist dress was the perfect garment to wear because it did not require a corset; it was loose, and therefore allowed women to move about and dance freely. The flappers who wore these dresses were telling the world that they were sick of wearing constricting clothing, and they wanted to be free. Although not the symbol of rebellion that they once were, drop-waist dresses still provide a unique way to rock a dress. In a light fabric, they’re perfect to wear on a beautiful spring day. Drop-waist dresses accented with fringe or sequins are also great to wear for a night out.
4. Statement Jewelry
Two things came together in the 1920s to define the jewelry of the period: Art Deco and the discovery of King Tut’s tomb. Art Deco is a design style that emphasizes geometric shapes, bold colors, and luxurious decoration. The Chrysler building in New York City is a perfect example of Art Deco architecture. The boldness of this design style is the perfect complement to the excess and luxury of the 1920’s. The discovery of King Tut’s tomb in 1922 also heavily influenced the jewelry. Designers were inspired by the boy king’s elaborate tomb, and as a result, incorporated gold and large gems into their pieces. The women’s jewelry of previous periods is feminine and dainty. The jewelry of the 1920’s is still feminine, but it is bold. The earrings are long, dangly, and have interesting shapes. The necklaces are also long, and have pendants that are chunky and appear in a variety of colors. The brooches are covered in gems and sparkle on the wearer’s chest. Today, we live in a world where women can pile on necklaces of all shapes and sizes and wear five bracelets on each wrist if they wanted to. The women of this period are the ones who made that possible. An outfit is nothing without accessories, and one statement piece can make a simple outfit into something amazing.
5. T-strap Shoes
For the first time, as hemlines rose, women had the opportunity to show off their shoes and feet. T-strap shoes became popular during this period because they were relatively comfortable to dance in, were unique, and allowed women to reveal a bit of skin. These shoes still appear in designers’ collections year after year because there’s something timeless about them. Their interesting design showcases a woman’s feet, and they’re a great alternative to regular pumps.
Woman’s underwear
www.victoriana.com/Fashion/1920s/lingerie.htm
The 1920s women’s fashions exhibited an unprecedented transformation from the heavily corseted figure of the Victorian era into an almost boyish silhouette. Dresses were shapeless and loose-fitting, with skirt lengths rotating from ankle length to knee length and back again. Shapely curves were concealed with undefined box-shape fashions; and flat-chested was in!
Young women took to bandaging their breasts flat to achieve the desired manly outline or wore undergarments just as the Symington Side Lacer that flattened the bust when tightened. 1920s lingerie and 1920s underwear reflected the absence of a silhouette the same as dress fashions by mimicking the box shape in slips, chemises and negligees.
vintagedancer.com/1920s/lingerie-history/
The slim silhouette and lighter style of dresses in the twenties also had a dramatic effect on women’s 1920s lingerie. In the 1900s a woman would wear drawers/bloomers, chemise, corset, corset cover, and several petticoats underneath her dress. Up 11 layers of lingerie was put on a well to do lady. By the end of the 1920s, a thin woman could only wear a brassier with a teddy and be sufficiently dressed in lingerie.
Lingerie fabric choices included cottons and silks in the form of satin, pongee, shantung, crepe de chine and silk glove. Artificial silk, called Rayon, was a good middle class choice of fabric. Rayon is easy to dye so new colors of peach, pink, pastel green, and flesh were available instead of just white. Rayon breathed well and was considered very sanitary (a new concern for all in the twenties.) In the second half of the decade printed fabrics were becoming trendy. Dainty decorations like lace, applique, embroidery and ribbon flowers were added to lingerie. The underwear had to be as pretty as the outerwear.
Between 1920 and 1928, corset sales declined by two thirds, but corsets makers adapted to changing needs. Long corsets produced the boyish figure, but instead of thick boned corsets many women preferred thin elastic “Lastix” girdles that flattened the abdomen. They squished flesh into a tubular shape, all the way from under the bust down over the hip. A heavy duty corset had a girdle on the inside and a longer corset on the outside. Long corsets made walking a slow stiff gliding motion.
Fast flappers refused to wear corsets. “The men won’t dance with you if you wear a corset” cried the young flappers. Many dance establishments included “corset check rooms,” where girls who had to leave home wearing a corset could remove it during the dance. Only unconfined flappers could run, dance, and drive cars in comfort.
The function of the brassiere throughout most of the decade was to flatten, not enhance, the breasts. Bust flattening garments were usually made from cotton, did not have cups, and were worn tight against the body. A linen or silk bandeau/bust bodice/bust confiner that had elastic in the back and fastened on the sides could also function as a 1920s brassiere. A buxom woman’s bandeau was made of heavier twill cotton or brocade and had longer lengths. Many adopted the Symington Side Lacer, a bra that could be laced at both sides and pulled in to flatten the chest. Strapping the “girls” down had negative effects on them. Many women into the thirties and beyond said their breasts never came back to their previous perky life. As the decade came to an end, more women began to wear bras with cups that were designed to life and separate, courtesy of the Maiden Form Brassiere Company.
Woven cotton or silk bloomers, drawers, and french panties were baggier and longer than knickers, falling to the knee or perhaps just above. Drawers and bloomers are basically the same with the primary difference being that drawers have a wide leg opening and bloomers have an elastic leg opening. Of course, neither of these options were good for the iconic 20s beaded dress so in that case, a silk step-in chemise was the best option. Step-ins had pointed waist yokes that were cut on the straight of fabric while the side pieces were cut on the bias allowing fabric to fall in graceful fluted folds. They were about as far away from a corset as you can get complete with a button or snap crotch and were intended to be worn next to the skin.
For winter these light chemise or step-ins were too light. Cotton or wool union suits (long johns) were still worn, however, the legs and arms were cut shorter to accommodate shorter hem and sleeve lengths. They still had back flaps buttoned or snapped into place.
Nightgowns were long ankle length pull over gowns with pretty embroidery and square lace necklines. Winter versions could be made of flannel in a multitude of colorful plaids and patterns.
Pajamas Suits were a favorite in summer with a sleeveless V neck tunic over wide leg loose pants. Silk, rayon, cotton fabric in pastels colors were common. Red and black were an Asian inspired trend. They had lots of embroidery with floral butterflies and dragon patterns.
Nightgowns were long ankle length pull over gowns with pretty embroidery and square lace necklines. Winter versions could be made of flannel in a multitude of colorful plaids and patterns.
Pajamas Suits were a favorite in summer with a sleeveless V neck tunic over wide leg loose pants. Silk, rayon, cotton fabric in pastels colors were common. Red and black were an Asian inspired trend. They had lots of embroidery with floral butterflies and dragon patterns.
Also called hostess coats they were long silk robes in pink, powder blue or peach trimmed with fluffy ruffles, ruching, silk fringe, lace, fur, ostrich feathers, and ribbon flowers. They were very popular items for movie stars to wear on and off set.
Make up
hair-and-makeup-artist.com/womens-1920s-makeup/
Face and Complexion
The complexion was considered the most important aspect of beauty, as it had been in previous decades, and cold cream was a best seller throughout the decade.
A variety of skin care products were on the market (for example, to vanish wrinkles, build tissue, vanquish blemishes and freckles), and their use widely discussed in magazine articles. Just like today.
After cold cream, face powder was probably the most important makeup item for many women. It came in limited colours, the most common being white, cream, pink (often called ‘Flesh’ or ‘Natural’) and sandy tones (often called ‘Brunette’, whatever the brand). There was even a green-tinted face powder, used more in the early 1920s.
Face powder was applied with a powder puff and used liberally. Powders were sometimes mixed to personalise colour more, and some women used different colours on different parts of the face – a sort of contouring attempt.
Rouge was applied to the apples, where cheek colour naturally occurs. Application could often give women a soft, flushed look to the face. Lipstick and rouge colour would often be matched.
Rouge came predominantly in shades of pink, from pale pink to dark rose.
Rouge with an orange tint was considered good for women with a golden skin tone or, later on, a tan.
Rouge was often classed simply as ‘Light’, ‘Medium’ or ‘Dark’. A darker pink was sometimes called ‘Brunette’, as it was considered the right shade for dark hair.
Rouge formulations include dry powder, liquid and paste, and came in little pots, tins, jars and compacts.
Rouge was applied to the apples, where cheek colour naturally occurs. Application could often give women a soft, flushed look to the face.
Classic 1920s eye shadow is dark, soft and smoky. Colour was applied to the eyelids and crease, and also underneath the eyes. Magazine articles from 1926 on mention purple and blue pencils used as eye shadow. There was also brown eye shadow. For those less brave, or for a more subtle daytime look, a trace of darker face powder was used on the eyelids.
Pencil liners were used to draw a line on the upper eyelids or round the whole eye. A dot was used in the outer corner to give the tilted-up look.
Mascara was still a relatively new invention and used to primarily darken the lashes. It was known as ‘eyelash beautifier’ or ‘eyelash darkener’.
Formulations include liquid, paste and a solid cake block, with a little flat brush for applying the product to the lashes. It could also be used on eye brows.
Maybelline was the leader in eyelash products and the company spent a lot on advertising.
In 1923, a new device was invented – the eyelash curler. Made by Kurlash, it was a big success, despite being expensive at the time. It looked similar to the clamp curlers we use today.
Eyebrows
Long and thin eyebrows were the ‘film star fashionable’ look for the ’20s. There were two ways to get the look: pluck them thin and pencil in, or pluck/shave the brows off and draw on the brows in pencil, creating whatever shape or look one required.
Clara Bow‘s penciled brows were sometimes drawn on lower than her natural brow. Being wide set and sloping down, these brows created the mournful ‘doe eyed’ look.
Natural brows would be shaped in a thin arch and coloured using paste or cake mascara, or a brow pencil. It was fashionable to draw the ends of the brows beyond the natural brow, and slopping down.
Everyday women may not have plucked their brows as thinly as seen on some movie stars or in adverts. In portrait photographs, ordinary ladies have brows that tend to be a bit thicker.
Lip pomade came in pots or in a palette as part of a compact. The new thing in lipstick was the push-up tube (made from metal or Bakelite), invented by Maurice Levy in 1915.
Lip colours came in shades of red, pink and orange – colour descriptions used in adverts and on products include poppy, rose, scarlet, cerise, raspberry and carmine. The early ’20s lip colours were darker, like claret. Towards the end of the ’20s, lip colours got a bit lighter, like raspberry.
Tangee made one lipstick – an orange that turned a coral pink on the lips. Indelible lipsticks (long-lasting) were also available.
The lip shape most associated with 1920s makeup is the cupid’s bow. The upper lip was heart-shaped, and lipstick on the lower lip was applied short of its outer edge, creating a smaller-looking and rounded mouth.
The cinema showed women from all walks of life, from socialites to secretaries, with immaculate nails. Manicured nails were no longer just for rich folks whose hands never saw manual labour. Everyone could have nice nails.
Nails had been coloured for thousands of years using pastes, liquids and waxes made from all sorts of ingredients, largely unchanged for centuries. The 20th century saw the start of modern nail varnish, where a coat of liquid is painted on and left to dry/harden.
Liquid nail varnish with more in common to the products used today started in 1917, when Cutex introduced varnish made from coloured resins.
After World War I, there was a surplus of nitrocellulose. Experimentation showed that boiling nitrocellulose made it soluble in organic solvents, which, once evaporated and dried, left a hard, glossy lacquer. The car industry loved it and, with a few minor tweaks, it became nail lacquer.
Early nail varnishes didn’t adhere well and soon wore off, but it was the start of the nail varnish industry. The first products were made in translucent soft pinks, creating a natural-looking colour reminiscent of the nail waxes used at the time.
For a white nail tip, products like Cutex Nail White was used under the tip.
Nails were filed to an oval tip, some even had quite a sharp point. One style of manicure seen in the 1920s was the half moon manicure: where the round moon and tips of the nails were left bare.